Found exhaust valves and seats show signs of exesive heat. allong with glazed cylinders and huge wear in rings. I haven't till now rebuilt the engine but I did clean out cooling fins and check tappet clearances. so I suspect all this wear was caused by overheating. Main problem is that when the cylinders and cylinder head fins block up with grass seed, dust, dirt, rocks and any oil leaks from the head bolts, push rod tubes. As the build up incleases the airflow past the cylinders decreases and takes the path of least resistance through the oil cooler.
Thursday, May 24, 2012
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
Sunday, February 19, 2012
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Saturday, August 13, 2011
ZF Steering box
So my steering box received a new caster wheel shaft as the old one had some pitting on the flanks. The old bushes in the housing and in the aluminium cover where a little worn so I popped them out and machined up some new plain bearing.
The aluminium backing plate
setup your job in a lathe, machine a little of the aluminium out to clean out the remains of the dimples from casting and machine the OD of a bush to suit (see photo above). I would recommend the smallest interference fit you can manage as its very thin walled aluminium you'll be pushing it into. I then also used a retaining compound to minimise any chance of turning in the housing. To make the ID concentric to the main housing's bearing, setup the aluminium backing plate using the spigot and face of the flange, then bore out.
The main steering housing
The bearing for the housing is a little simpler. measure the bore, machine the bearing with a interference fit on the OD (i still used a retaining compound) and a tad undersize on the ID maybe .02 ΓΈ and then ream out to desired clearance.
Note
make sure that when you box it all up the caster wheel shaft doesn't become tight when the backing plates spigot is pulled up. if it does! you can do it all again! ; )
The end float on the driving spindle should be checked even if it has not been changed. I found mine to be have a end float of .2mm!
after thought
It seams like a design flaw that on the 'support housing' the plastic bearing is protected from the mud and water under the haflinger by the 35x25x7 lip seal. any water that finds its way in between the support housing and the steering box housing will run down and collect at the bottom of the houseing (near the steering drop arm) and rust the caster wheel shaft's bearing journal. I will be filling the support housing with marine grade grease and using liquid gasket at the support housing/steering box.
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Tuesday, April 19, 2011
Saturday, March 5, 2011
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Sunday, November 21, 2010
Sunday, November 14, 2010
Saturday, November 13, 2010
Friday, November 12, 2010
Sunday, November 7, 2010
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Monday, September 6, 2010
gearbox jig
Sunday, August 29, 2010
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Monday, July 5, 2010
Thursday, June 24, 2010
reassembling
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Wednesday, December 30, 2009
Due to water and oil getting into the centre tube the bearings and seals are being replaced.
Question is how did the oil/water get in? with only a 'drain' (as described in the parts book) plug at the top of the tube.
To drain any future liquid from the tube. I have now drilled two drain plugs which are protected by being under the front and rear skid plates.
Note: two drain plugs are required as the centre bearing would trap liquid either side of the tube.
Monday, December 28, 2009
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