Thursday, May 24, 2012

Engine removed after excessive oil consumption. The final rebuild.

Found exhaust valves and seats show signs of exesive heat. allong with glazed cylinders and huge wear in rings. I haven't till now rebuilt the engine but I did clean out cooling fins and check tappet clearances. so I suspect all this wear was caused by overheating. Main problem is that when the cylinders and cylinder head fins block up with grass seed, dust, dirt, rocks and any oil leaks from the head bolts, push rod tubes. As the build up incleases the airflow past the cylinders decreases and takes the path of least resistance through the oil cooler.



Tuesday, May 1, 2012

Trailer


Now that the hafi is on the road why not start on the original haflinger trailer to go with it?

Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Finally








Its been just over two years and one month since buying the little truck, finally the first ever drive of my haflinger.


now just a few more minor things to do before registration.



































Tuesday, October 25, 2011

Saturday, August 13, 2011

out of sequence photo




ZF Steering box

So my steering box received a new caster wheel shaft as the old one had some pitting on the flanks. The old bushes in the housing and in the aluminium cover where a little worn so I popped them out and machined up some new plain bearing.

The aluminium backing plate

Be warned the bearing in the aluminium backing cover has had the aluminium cast around it! as you can see in the photo above. This would have been done to prevent it from turning in the housing under the extreme radial loads found in haflinger's ZF steering box. I believe retaining compound would have been around in the 60's but would have been in its early infancy.


setup your job in a lathe, machine a little of the aluminium out to clean out the remains of the dimples from casting and machine the OD of a bush to suit (see photo above). I would recommend the smallest interference fit you can manage as its very thin walled aluminium you'll be pushing it into. I then also used a retaining compound to minimise any chance of turning in the housing. To make the ID concentric to the main housing's bearing, setup the aluminium backing plate using the spigot and face of the flange, then bore out.

The main steering housing
The bearing for the housing is a little simpler. measure the bore, machine the bearing with a interference fit on the OD (i still used a retaining compound) and a tad undersize on the ID maybe .02 ΓΈ and then ream out to desired clearance.

Note
make sure that when you box it all up the caster wheel shaft doesn't become tight when the backing plates spigot is pulled up. if it does! you can do it all again! ; )

The end float on the driving spindle should be checked even if it has not been changed. I found mine to be have a end float of .2mm!

after thought
It seams like a design flaw that on the 'support housing' the plastic bearing is protected from the mud and water under the haflinger by the 35x25x7 lip seal. any water that finds its way in between the support housing and the steering box housing will run down and collect at the bottom of the houseing (near the steering drop arm) and rust the caster wheel shaft's bearing journal. I will be filling the support housing with marine grade grease and using liquid gasket at the support housing/steering box.


Saturday, May 14, 2011

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Engine bay waiting on exhaust.


Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Saturday, November 13, 2010

update

From Drop Box

Pressure plate spring shoes made from Bakelite showing cracks and needed replaceing.



So.. no one supplying these I made some. Bakelite rod wasn't easy to find but with the donation of some plate I made these.


Back from blasting.

Friday, November 12, 2010

Sunday, November 7, 2010


rebuilt, fuel pump, distributor, dynostarter.
Valve clearances checked, crank seals replaced (speedy sleeve was required on the flywheel)



Wednesday, September 22, 2010

boxed up gearbox

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Sunday, September 12, 2010

done!

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selectors setup and reverse installed.

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Monday, September 6, 2010

gearbox jig

checking gearbox jig for the first time.

setting up selector forks next weekend and hopefully boxing it all up

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Sunday, August 29, 2010

rust around/ under seat brackets

looks like the painting under these was overlooked.

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media blasting

almost ready for blasting

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paint

1st test of the protect paint that i will use. colour spot on!

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reverse gear bush

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Sunday, August 15, 2010

front half axles + diff shimmed and sealed.

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Monday, July 5, 2010

Thursday, June 24, 2010

reassembling

reasembly of front diff, left front half axle, 4x4 selector and centre tube.

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Saturday, January 2, 2010

This is what the hafi will look like when it's finished.

More photos and Info

Wednesday, December 30, 2009


Due to water and oil getting into the centre tube the bearings and seals are being replaced.
Question is how did the oil/water get in? with only a 'drain' (as described in the parts book) plug at the top of the tube.
To drain any future liquid from the tube. I have now drilled two drain plugs which are protected by being under the front and rear skid plates.
Note: two drain plugs are required as the centre bearing would trap liquid either side of the tube.

Monday, December 28, 2009


100000000001 gearbox and diff parts.

I hope I know how it all goes back together. Dave!!!!!!! help!!!!!!

(Dave is the head engineer of this rebuild. thanks Dave!)

removal of pin from diff.

(pin has already been removed.)

block of plastic to protect housing and then just turn nuts and pin should come out easy.

Centre tube removed, will be sand blasted and painted soon.

windscreen damage.. so hit with hammer, cut and weld.